 |
|
|
 |
|
The Total Lawn Care Program
is designed to maintain your lawn's color and vigor and minimize
weeds throughout the growing season. The applications are seasonally
adjusted to your lawn's needs and are made about 5-6 weeks apart. Our
trained lawn technicians will work with you to maintain the quality
lawn you expect. Great lawns need continuous care. Our TLC applications
do an excellent job when coupled with your good mowing and watering.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
You are Part of the Team
You are as important to the success of the lawn as we are. Your
good mowing and watering along with our TLC program means you're on your
way to a greener, healthier lawn. With each TLC application, we leave
information on what we did and what you need to do to give your lawn the
TLC it needs. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| SEASON |
|
TREATMENT
& OBJECTIVE |
| 1.
Spring Fertilization & Weed Control |
|
Liquid fertilizer with nitroge, potash and sulfer to stimulate growth
and deepen turf color. Pre-emergent for crabgrass and broadleaf weed control
for dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 2. Early Summer Fertilization & Weed Control |
|
Liquid phosphorus free fertilizer to thicken turf and maintain color.
Broadleaf weed control for dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 3. Mid-Summer Fertilization & Weed Control |
|
Granular slow release fertilizer to help turf through the hot, often
stressful part of summer. Broadleaf weed control for tough summer weeds. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
| 4. Fall Fertilization & Weed Control |
|
Liquid fertilizer high in nitrogen and potash to promote root development.
Broadleaf weed control for dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| 5. Late Fall Fertilization & Weed Control |
|
Granular fertilizer to help turf over winter and get off to a quick
start in the following spring. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| CORE
AERATION |
Core aeration significantly improves the health and performance of turf
grasses and should be done on a regular basis. As a rule, sodded lawns
need aeration more often that seeded lawns. We recommend annual
aeration for sodded lawns. Seeded lawns should be aerated about every
other year. Aeration is done with a machines that removes
half inch diameter plugs of thatch and soil. The soil in the plugs will
get wattered back into your lawn allowing soil microorganisms to decompose
thatch. Like tilling a garden, it turns over the soil. This allows water,
oxygen and nutrients to reach the root zone more easily and also reduces
compaction and thatch, which helps minimize disease. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Homeowners
Guidelines to Mowing and Watering |
|
Looking
At Your Lawn |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| MOWING |
|
- Grass
Type:
-
Most
lawns have several different varieties of grasses. A blend gives a
broader spectrum of disease resistance, but different varieties have
different color potential.
- Soil
type:
-
Central
Minnesota soils are high in phosphorus, consequently we use no phosphorus.
- Turf
Density:
-
Thick
healthy turf discourages crabgrass and other weeds from germinating.
Thin lawns need time and proper care to reach their potential. Sometimes
reseeding is needed - fall is the best time to seed.
- Thatch:
-
Thatch
is the layer of living and dead roots above the soil. Too much thatch
restricts water, oxygen, and nutrients from reaching the roots in
the soil. Core Aeration on a regular basis is an excellent way to
manage thatch.
- Shade:
-
Certain
varieties do better than others in shaded areas, but it's always harder
to grow dense turf in heavily shaded areas. Trimming the trees to
allow more light is sometimes necessary.
- Insects:
-
Thousands
of insects live in your lawn, most of them beneficial. Turf feeding
insects can kill turfgrass if there are enough of them. We offer insect
control if needed.
- Fertility:
-
Nitrogen
is the nutrient that gives turf a dark green color. Nitrogen must
be replaced several times a year (3 - 5), to maintain color because
it is not held by the soil like phosphorus and potassium.
- Weeds:
-
New
weeds germinate throughout the season and need to be treated several
times to maintain a weed free lawn. We guarantee at least 75% broadleaf
weed control each spraying. Quack grass is not selectively controllable
in turf.
|
- 1.
Mow at 2 1/2 -3 inches.
-
Cutting
too low can cause grass to turn brown during hot, dry periods. It
also allows crabgrass and other weeds to germinate.
- 2.
Sharpen mower blade often.
-
At
least once a month. A dull mower blade tears the grass blades, causing
stress to your lawn.
- 3.
Mow often.
-
A
rule of thumb is not to cut more than 1/3 of the plant at a time.
It's important to mow often - especially when leaving clippings lay.
- 4.
Don't mow in hot, dry weather.
-
If
your lawn is drying out, water it and allow time for it to recover
before mowing or do not mow at all. Tall and green is better than
short and brown.
|
|
| |
|
|
|
| WATERING |
|
- How
Much:
-
In
cool weather, about 1" of total moisture per week. In hot weather,
about 2" per week.
- How
Often:
-
If
conditions allow, it's best to water thoroughly once or twice a week.
If your lawn is drying out in a day or two, you can water daily, but
not to the point of saturation. As you increase the frequency, decrease
the volume.
- When:
-
Watering
can be done anytime other than late evening. Water early enough for
the grass to dry before nightfall. If the grass is wet at nightfall,
it stays wet all night, which can promote fungal diseases.
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Email
us for a free estimate info@totallawncare.us
© 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Total Lawn Care, Inc. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|